Archive for Travel

Destination Colombia

// June 5th, 2009 // 1 Comment » // Travel

I will be visiting Colombia enticingly soon. The “Boots’n'all” Number 1 destination for Independent Travellers in 2009 has had a more than difficult tourism brand to work with after a number of violent decades, however this has all changed remarkably in recent years. A new Lonely Planet guide will be released in about ten days, marking open season on a new era of Colombian travel. Here’s an advanced edition of what they have to say on the matter.

“Colombia’s back.

After decades of civil conflict, Colombia is now safe to visit and travelers are discovering what they’ve been missing. The diversity of the country may astonish you. Modern cities with skyscrapers and discos? Check. Gorgeous Caribbean beaches? Check. Jungle walks and Amazon safaris? Check. Colonial cities, archaeological ruins, high-mountain trekking, whale- watching, coffee plantations, scuba diving, surfing, the list goes on.

No wonder the ‘magic realism’ style of Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez emerged from here – there is a dreamlike quality to Colombia. Here at the equator, with the sun forever overhead, the fecund earth beneath your feet, heart-stopping vistas in every direction and the warmth of the locals putting you at ease – you may find it difficult to leave.

Although international news reports seldom show it, Colombia is one of the most well-developed countries in Latin America. Universities here produce legions of finely educated, ambitious professionals and the country boasts a reliable legal system with low levels of corruption. World-class health care and hospitals round out its enviable social infrastructure. Its optimistic middle class believes hard work will be rewarded – and it is.

Colombian culture, like the country’s weather, varies by altitude. The essence of Colombia resides in the mountains in the alpine cities of Bogotá, Medellín and Cali, and the smaller cities of the Zona Cafetera. This is the industrial heartland of the country. Geographical isolation has kept the accent relatively unaffected by outside influence; Spanish here is precise and easy to understand. The infrastructure in the mountain region is good, the water drinkable, the roads well maintained. In the heat of the Caribbean coast, life is slower, and the culture more laid-back. The accent is the unhurried drawl of the Caribbean basin, and the infrastructure, unfortunately, is still in need of some attention.

Colombia’s role in the drug trade continues to play out in the back- ground. The improved security situation is due in large part to funding from Washington. This has made little dent in the cocaine business, however, which continues to operate in the deep jungle and the remote mountains. The great richness of Colombia’s tropical soil is both its blessing and its curse – huge varieties of tropical fruit grow here, and Colombia is a major agricultural exporter. It is also the world’s largest producer of cocaine, and this is unlikely to change anytime soon.

‘Plan Colombia’ has successfully driven the violence from the cities and the main tourist routes, and brought peace to most of Colombia. While President Álvaro Uribe deserves great credit for this (Colombians call him their first saint), many are deeply worried by the election of US President Barack Obama. Without continued US foreign aid, the widespread fear is that the country will fall back into chaos.

In darker days people used to say, ‘if only it weren’t for the violence and drugs, Colombia would be paradise.’ Well the drugs may still be here but the violence is gone, at least for now, and it is, indeed, paradise. It is an easy country to fall in love with, and many travelers do. It may well become your favorite country in South America.”

© Lonely Planet Publications


Returning to Giza

// April 16th, 2009 // No Comments » // Travel

There are few moments from my travels that live as vividly in my mind as camel riding around the Pyramids of Giza in the spring of 2005. To ride, wide-eyed, around this wonder of creation, to feel completely immersed in an ancient experience that is at once utterly exotic and intensely familiar. For we already know the Pyramids intimately, such is their penetration into the culture of history and modernity. We know their immense size, their definitive shape and structures, their dominance of the landscape, their mystery- yet it is indescribably shocking to witness them for these same factors. To see the Pyramids for the first time is to see a myth made real, to see a color that you have only ever heard described, and in this awe you are in sweet communion with myriad generations.

Last weekend I took my family to see these grand monuments of Pharaohnic Egypt. It was my parents’ thirtieth wedding anniversary and my sister had joined us from Istanbul. We ventured to Giza and found camels and horses with which to cross over to the Giza plateau, and thus come across the Pyramids from some empty desert- to taste more fully this feeling of discovery that so many have reveled within. Watching these three people I care deeply about, who were a world away in the months I lived here, now ride wide-eyed around the Wonder, to see their minds ignite in realisation of their experience and this intimate and overwhelming connection to an ancient story- this was a truly joyous and fulfilling moment and one that will live indelibly in my mind forever.

Instamatic Focal Point: Madrid, Spain

// February 25th, 2009 // 3 Comments » // Travel

Some photographs I captured during a recent weekend in Madrid with my marvellous flatmate, Giovanni.

Two recommendations for happy living.
1: When possible, go to Spain. 2: Always live with Italians.

The Outsider In

// February 24th, 2008 // No Comments » // Travel

I arrive onto Morro do Sao Paulo at 7 am, after a gorgeous two hour boat trip from Valencia and a horrible 9 hours on the bus from Porto Seguro. Tired I stumble around pousadas trying to find something cheap and beachish. Ah, the Black & White pousada on Praia Tres, clean, friendly, cheap. I crash into emergency sleep and stumble to a late breakfast. And here’s the kicker given my comments about the huge teams of Israelis in Arrial D’Ajuda. Something is up in this hostel. Every single other person is Israeli. And then I notice the pousada sign properly. It’s not the Black & White pousada, it’s the Black (Star of David) White pousada. Better yet, I’m rocking my Kufiyya, the black and white arab headscarf I use as a beach towel. Awkward! Awesome. So I’m the only גוי (gentile) dude living with around 30 Israelis.

It’s been fun and I think I can understand why they appear as a closed and perhaps cold groups to outsiders. The basic plan is that they do their military service for 1-3 years, work to earn cash for a year and then feck off to latin america for 6-18 months to get out of the head trip built up from the army and living in Israel all their life. Here they meet old school and army buddies and connect with people who speak their language in what, for many, is their first real foreign experience. On the outside these groups often seem insular, uninterested in local culture or adapting from their cultural norms, but inside they show a very different dynamic. Sitting around in groups playing Hebrew (and radiohead) songs on guitar, singing, laughing and sharing a communal connection fostered by the above factors, perhaps combined with some kibbutz heritage. A really lovely communal warmth that reminded me of my time with groups of Koreans and Egyptians.

I’m not fond of this type of travel as it massively limits the diversity of experience, but I think I can understand it a bit better now. And definitely Israelis aren’t the only ones- Argentines here often seem similar- and British weekenders in Amsterdam or Aussies in London- can be pretty insenitive and insular to put it mildly. Of course I don’t mean generalize, indeed I’m referring to a subgroup. I’ve meet some awesome Israeli solo traveller who avoid the common haunts and are as open and adaptive as any people I’ve meet upon the way. Enough hedging- to the beach I go!

Darkness in Bahia

// February 21st, 2008 // 2 Comments » // My Personal Journey, Travel

Fade from black.

A vague awareness of sweat soaked fabric wrapping my body drifts into view. It must be sometime in the afternoon by now. I’m in Trancoso- no.. now it’s Arrial D’Ajuda. My body craves water. It must be three already. What time did we finish? Flashes of the hour long morning walk back along the beaches roll past, we arrived just in time for breakfast. Ah breakfast, hence the corn flakes I feel among the bedsheets. A momentary reflection upon my terribleness and then.. it was a wonderful party. A hundred people along the beach, with a huge moon filling the sky and the sea, the air thick with music, laughter and a sub-tropical humidity. I might just be able to open my eyes. Then shower. It would bring sweet relief from all this sweaty fabric. And thank God for this ceiling fan. The symphony of it’s ticking and whiring emerges, rhythms ever changing. Kept the mosquitos away too. Mosquitos! Tens of bites, old and new, compete for my attention. Itch. Itch. I roll onto my side, forget again and find relief. To do? What to do? To stay again or continue the northward journey? Days are slipping so quickly, they feel almost stolen. It’s already the full moon. Ah, the full moon. Maybe I should go back to Trancoso, for a celebration? Who told me? Which of these casual acquaintances upon the road was it? Too many voices, but I’m fairly sure. Hmm Trancoso again. Different to this place. Arrial is such a tourist village- even one day here is enough to read that. Big with the Israelis, menu’s in Hebrew! A smile. Then memories of a less than pleasant run in with some impolite Israelis guys flashes into view. Probably just out the freaking army. Poor bastards… The quiet of Trancoso takes over again, the sound of a silient summer night, high above the beach. An hour away and who knows if anyone is still there? A million other doubts arise. Then a stronger voice, Eleven Days Arthur. Eleven. I should go.

Five hours later. Half watching my reflection, half gazing into the night landscape of Bahia I stare into the window as this empty bus winds towards Trancoso. The shadows of palm trees on the open sky rush by. Suddenly I realise where I am on this planet. Somewhere in north-eastern Brazil an Australian man is bridging the darkness between two towns, no bags, nothing except a little cash, water, sunscreen and insect repellent. Solution to most problems here. Again the realisation of where I am, and deeper. And what for? Decisions I suppose- the only way is to keep making the narrative as I go. Wake up one morning or another with a gut feeling that it’s time to move, a hunger for another place that you never knew and another chapter is added to this story and strangely enough the themes seem to play out just right. So now Trancoso and now Brazil. And this time to think. The days become full of sun and music and food and people and reading and trying a little more language here and there, yet it seems like there’s no time, no really good time, to think. But here in the buses, in the darkness, it’s just me and the rushing of Bahia, and it all comes so easy. So free.

Algumas palavras de Trancoso

// February 18th, 2008 // 4 Comments » // Travel

Boa noite.

Quantos cocos você bebeu hoje? Realmente? Eu bebi cinco. Não estou brincando. Tudo que eu comi foi água de coco. É trabahlo difícil, mas alguém precisa curtir esse mar azul turquesa e beber essas coisas. Se não for eu, então quem? Se não agora, então quando? E se somente para mim, então quem sou eu? Eu bebo esses cocos para as crianças que não têm ninguém para beber por elas.

paz amigos,

PS- ok brasileiros- eu tive um pouco ajuda do peixes de babel, mas eu estou tentando. Por que você tem tal gramática difícil? Lute o tempo passado!

PPS- Não fala português? I’m just ranting about how many cocunuts I drank today. The answer may astound you. The answer is five.

A few words from Brazil

// February 14th, 2008 // 3 Comments » // Travel

Ahah, the internet, how I remember thee- what with your 30 second guffahs and bountiful information on Slovak legislature. Here in Brazil the Internet, or internet em portugues, rarely enters my world- for it bodes poorly on the perfect sandy beaches of an ecological isle, or stradling precariously upon the edge of a crystal clear waterfall. Nor could this electronic siren withstand the firey samba of a Rio bloco, or the predawn ravings of the twin titans Sao Paulo and Buenos Aires. Yet here in the unlikely lands of Belo Horizonte, after some six weeks upon the trail, I find myself with time, access and some consideration that sooner than later I shall once again number with those unfortunates who know not the gentle touch of mother Brazil.

The journey has gone something like this. Amsterdam (to be my home for yet another year)->Buenos Aires (where one dines at midnight and mocks the dawn)->Florianopolis (an island of beautiful people)->Ilha do Mel (an ecological island of sunset rainbows and deserted beaches)->Sao Paulo (a city that eats other cities and in which one eats fantastically)->Rio de Janeiro (the city of samba, of carnaval, of legends playing out a million tales)->Ouro Preto (a baroque village sculpted out of the mountains). In an hour I will board a bus to the north-eastern state of Bahia, where I shall spend my final few weeks slowly making my way up the coast- crawling from fishing village to resplendent isle- until I reach the great afro-brazilian city of Salvador and this happy trail ends.

I should like to write of my experiences here, of The World in Brazil, perhaps a few words in portuguese, a photo or two when technology permits and a flickering vision of life away from this continent. But it will be slow because the beach beckons, a metaphysics of quality is demanding my consideration and Brazil is still roaring just metres away. Suffice to say for now that all is well and life is being lived and loved in this corner of the world.

peace

Feliz Ano Novo

// January 4th, 2008 // 2 Comments » // Travel

“Wise is he who enjoys the show offered by the world.”- Fernando Pessoa

Thursday evening I walked out of ABN Amro for the last time- with a bottle of champagne in hand and a strange taste in my mouth. Ending my two year sojourn in the financial sector, I looked up at the grand towers that once daunted a younger man, laughed to myself, and walked away across the bridge and into something new.

Seventy-two hours later I sit in an apartment upon the Plaza Congresso, in the middle of Buenos Aires, not really believing that I’m here. One week in Argentina, then a 7-week trip through Brazil- Florianopolis, Ilha do Mel, Sao Paulo, Rio and a myriad of beaches in the north east. Untold adventures lie before me- some of which I hope to be telling here.

Millions of thanks to all the Brasileiros who helped me prepare for this muito legal adventure- and especially Fernanda for all the Português lessons and positive reinforcement. Eu sou gringo, mas nao sou bobo.

Peace

When It’s Good…

// August 19th, 2007 // No Comments » // Travel

The Last 48 Hours Of Single-Handedly Rocking Istanbul Has Been So Damn Incredible It Deserves To Be Capitalized. I Just Traveled Between Two Continents, Danced To Midnight Reggae On A Roof Terrace Cityscape, And Saw A Throne Taken From A Moghul Emperor Defeated In The 16th Century. It’s 32 Degrees And I’m Fairly Sure I Will Be Watching The Sun Set From The Hotel Pool Overlooking The Sea Of Mamara.

Instamatic Focal Point: Siwa, Egypt

// June 15th, 2007 // 2 Comments » // Art, Music & Poetry, Travel

And
For no reason
I start skipping like a child
And
For no reason
I turn into a leaf
That is carried so high
I kiss the Sun’s mouth
And dissolve
And
For no reason
A thousand birds
Choose my head for a conference table,
Start passing their
Cups of wine
And their wild songbooks all around
And
For every reason in existence
I begin to eternally
To eternally laugh and love!
When I turn into a leaf
And start dancing,
I run to kiss our beautiful Friend
And I dissolve in the Truth
That I Am.
- Hafez (خواجه شمس‌الدین محمد حافظ شیراز)